Chowhound is a weekly column about what’s trending in Detroit food culture. Tips: [email protected].
Walking distance: A reader recently reached out about missing his hometown food scene, lamenting over the more cosmopolitan life he lived in Chicagoland. From its city proper to the sprawling, surrounding burbs, those bustling neighborhoods teamed with food businesses not far from his front door; in incarnations and concentrations that make our Motor City pale to him by comparison. Responding with a few thoughts and one question, I asked Mr. Hungry for Home what he hadfound to his liking since relocating. Still new to our area, he admitted he hadn’t done much epicurean exploring to date, so I challenged him to head out and find some places close to his new metro Detroit address worth reporting back to me on. Hopefully, he will.
On my own home front, I’ve recently done the same, having moved to west Dearborn from Livonia just weeks ago. Where proprietary (“small”) food businesses are concerned, prospects for success are strongly bolstered by regular support from customers living or working within a 1.5-mile radius of those businesses. Now living but a few blocks from a bunch of food stops lining a stretch of Monroe Street in my new neighborhood, I recently walked the eat/shop local talk I gave the guy from Chicago.
On foot, I started getting my steps in, heading to an oasis of eats options where Monroe Street meets Outer Drive. Walking, biking, or driving, I’m just five minutes away from Mati’s Deli, Monroe Bakery, Dearborn Farm Market, JJ’s Custard Co., and two anchored food trucks (Tio Juan’s and Nami Sushi). Save for Mati’s (maybe a quarter mile up the street), they’re all clustered there at the intersection.
At Mati’s (1842 Monroe St., 313-277-3253, matisdeli.com), chicken soup passes legit deli muster with a matzo ball nearly as big as the cup it comes in. Liverwurst is luscious sandwiched with slivered onion between thick slices of rye from Superior Bread (Livonia) and washed down with Doc Brown’s Black Cherry pop. Be advised: Mati’s ain’t cheap. My half-sandwich and soup combo with beverage costs me close to a twenty-spot. Still, convivial, conversational service and the food quality create value perception for me. The best delicatessens take customers to a better place in quick service culture, and this place delivers that.
Taking the short hop from there to JJ’s Custard Company (2801 Monroe St., 313-274-1750, jjcustardco.com), I’m tempted by their sweet treat signatures: the hot and cold utter coolness of “The Sweet Bun,” an ice cream or custard doughnut sandwich pressed all toasty on the outside, and family-sized frozen custard pies ($24) flecked with all kinds of crumble toppings (Fruity Pebbles, Cookie Monster, Strawberry Shortcake, et al.). At award-winning J.J.’s, the custard’s light and creamy, and presentations are colorfully creative.
Turning to Tio Juan’s food truck (2731 Monroe St., facebook.com/tiojuansdearborn), elote (Mexican street-style corn, $4) makes me more second homesick than usual for Arizona. In a cup rather than on the cob, this south-of-the-border side staple comes layered parfait-style with crunchy corn, crumbled cotija (Mexican farmer’s cheese), mayo, and Tajín. One minor quibble: add some chopped cilantro, please. With a concise, five-item menu (tacos $3.50-$4, quesadillas $7-9, burritos $8-12, nachos $10-12, corn), TJ’s doesn’t try to do too much, and that’s true to Mexican street food vendor tradition for sure. It’s simply bueno, and the meats are halal.
Across the street yet an ocean away conceptually, Nami is doing seriously good sushi (2823 Monroe St., 734-558-4718, namisushi.co). So far, I’ve sampled ultra-fresh and full-flavored spicy salmon roll drizzled in garlic aioli and decorated with micro broccoli sprouts and shaved jalapeño, and nibbled Asian charred corn cobbettes — Tomorokoshi — bathed in signature sauce and chili oil. The breadth of Nami’s menu is borderline breathtaking for a venue of it size and format, yet from rolls ($8-$14ish) and bowls (about $17) to nigiri/sashimi and crudo/hamachi ($10-$20-plus), it’s all rolling out of this Asian-ambitious little food truck.
Needing two thick-cut pork chops and enough fresh baby bella mushrooms to smother them with, I got those goods just to my liking from Dearborn Farm Market (2645 Monroe St., 313-278-3719, dearbornfarmmarket.com). On my first visit, I met Ted, the business’s resident butcher, and we struck up a conversation about the blessings of having an experienced, trained meat monger to turn to with requests for specific cuts of protein on special cooking occasions, who can also make informed recommendations on proper handling and preparation of meats, poultry, and seafood. Good luck getting that level of customer service from some retail grocer stocking still-frozen, pre-packaged, family packs of round steaks and chicken legs for you to choose from. Screw that. Tomorrow, in fact, I’m talking with Ted about a friend buying and butchering a whole side of beef, because I know he’ll hook me up.
Having been back in Dearborn as a resident for two weeks now, my new favorite food hang has quickly become Monroe Bakery (2611 Monroe St., 313-561-5400, monroebakery.com). The first time, I just wandered in to grab a couple of doughnuts. A handful of return visits since have kept me coming back for more of the utterly charming, good ‘ole fashioned, warm and fuzzy ambience that perfectly exemplifies what neighborhood food shops can add to the neighborly feel of the hoods we call home. Monroe Bakery has provided me the pleasure and privilege of making the acquaintance of three perfectly lovely ladies who man the customer service counter there with social grace and aplomb. They’ve engaged me in pleasant and cordial conversation and have indulged my tendency to talk someone’s ear off when given the opportunity. Already, I’m stopping in three or four times a week — spending maybe five bucks a visit — just to grab a little bite and gab a bit more.
And that’s all I’m saying here, folks. Walk out into the world right where you live. Explore. Make a difference. Taste more of the sweet, simple sustenance just outside your door. Support the people hanging their shingles just down your street. Make your world and theirs the same, better place. Amen.
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