Some surprisingly good Detroit-area eats can be found in gas stations

Gas stations have really stepped up their food options, like Taystee’s Burgers.
Robert Stempkowski
Gas stations have really stepped up their food options, like Taystee’s Burgers.

Gas stations were gas stations when I was a kid. You drove in over a rubber hose that rang a service bell. Regardless of weather conditions, an attendant came out to your car to fuel you up and check fluids under the hood. Next to the cigarette machine inside were a couple of candy dispensers: gumballs, jaw-breakers, and sometimes, dyed-red pistachios. It was a different world.

Nowadays (that’s a term we old farts use), self-serve pumps are standard, and gas stations have morphed into convenience marts. We pop in and pick up lottery tickets, replacement charging chords, hot and cold beverages, booze, and choose from a bevy of snacks that range from the sweet or salty to vacuum-sealed sandwiches and such that can suffice if we want something a little more substantial. If we’re lucky, there’s a clean microwave to blast a store-bought burrito.

When a friend told me about a Shell station I needed to try for lunch or dinner, I laughed. Turns out, she wasn’t joking. Inside an otherwise indistinct fuel depot at Telegraph and Van Born Roads sit two most meal-worthy, quick-serve concepts in Saroki’s Crispy Chicken & Pizza and Taystee’s Burgers.

“Have you ever had Saroki’s before?” my friend asked me after I looked at her funny.

“Once, but it cleared up,” I quipped, since it sounded like a skin condition to me.

“I’m serious,” she insisted. “Go. You’ll see. Taystee’s is good, too. A little pricey maybe, but good.”

Stepping up to order at Saroki’s (which has eight locations in metro Detroit; sarokis.com), I’m somehow recognized as a rookie by Carolyn, smiling big at me from across the counter.

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“First time, sir?” She’s way ahead of me. “Would you like a sample?” Instantly, I’m already half-sold on the business model. Bright, shining service is hard enough to find in full-service dining rooms nowadays (there’s that word again), let alone quick-service concepts, yet over the course of three separate orders, I’m treated to it by Saroki’s crew. Kudos.    
As for that free sample, while I expected a little piece of something, what I received was an entire chicken tender about the size of a bratwurst; crispy-coated and well-spiced (some cayenne?) outside, and cooked through perfectly moist and true to its name. Hungry for more, a two-piece basket ($8.99 with fountain beverage) proved just the ticket; the hunky thigh and breast portions I pointed Carolyn to pluck for me came sided with a crumbly, honey-brushed biscuit and homey, gravied mash potatoes complete with lumps. 
Passing on pizza my first visit (left under weak warming lights a little too long for my liking), I scored with a fresh-from-the-oven slice on a return trip (pepperoni $3.77). Worth the wait, the crust was Goldilocks thick; nicely crisped underneath, and just-right chewy, too, providing a sturdy-enough platform for its saucing and generous layering with cheese and cured meat. And that $3.77 pricing assures me Saroki’s gives some thought to customer cost and convenience. How many other menu writers out there might have just rounded the pre-tax price up to four bucks even and charged $4-plus change with tax? Saroki’s decides not to nickel and dime us, and little things can add up to a lot where guest perception’s concerned. 
Supremely satisfied with everything I ate to date, still on my must-try list are plump sausage-stuffed pigs in a blanket ($4) and beautifully oven-blistered calzones (prices vary). Nashville-style hot chicken, Cajun-fried fish, subs, and salads are also part of Saroki’s pick-up and catering portfolio.    
Anchored on the other side of the station, Taystee’s Taylor (there are five more locations in the Detroit area and another in Ann Arbor; taysteesburger.com) offers fresh (daily) halal beef across a burger-centric menu of à la carte sandwiches and sides, along with wings ($11.99 for a six-piece) and a few vegan ($7-$8) and protein-style bowl options ($12.99). Ownership and management are hands-on and like Saroki’s, staff is uniformly engaging and generous in spirited service and sincerely seems to want to know how your day’s going and, if you’re dining in (there’s ample seating), what you think of their food.
Lee DeVito

“First time, sir?” She’s way ahead of me. “Would you like a sample?” Instantly, I’m already half-sold on the business model. Bright, shining service is hard enough to find in full-service dining rooms nowadays (there’s that word again), let alone quick-service concepts, yet over the course of three separate orders, I’m treated to it by Saroki’s crew. Kudos.

As for that free sample, while I expected a little piece of something, what I received was an entire chicken tender about the size of a bratwurst; crispy-coated and well-spiced (some cayenne?) outside, and cooked through perfectly moist and true to its name. Hungry for more, a two-piece basket ($8.99 with fountain beverage) proved just the ticket; the hunky thigh and breast portions I pointed Carolyn to pluck for me came sided with a crumbly, honey-brushed biscuit and homey, gravied mash potatoes complete with lumps.

Passing on pizza my first visit (left under weak warming lights a little too long for my liking), I scored with a fresh-from-the-oven slice on a return trip (pepperoni $3.77). Worth the wait, the crust was Goldilocks thick; nicely crisped underneath, and just-right chewy, too, providing a sturdy-enough platform for its saucing and generous layering with cheese and cured meat. And that $3.77 pricing assures me Saroki’s gives some thought to customer cost and convenience. How many other menu writers out there might have just rounded the pre-tax price up to four bucks even and charged $4-plus change with tax? Saroki’s decides not to nickel and dime us, and little things can add up to a lot where guest perception’s concerned.

Supremely satisfied with everything I ate to date, still on my must-try list are plump sausage-stuffed pigs in a blanket ($4) and beautifully oven-blistered calzones (prices vary). Nashville-style hot chicken, Cajun-fried fish, subs, and salads are also part of Saroki’s pick-up and catering portfolio.

Anchored on the other side of the station, Taystee’s Taylor (there are five more locations in the Detroit area and another in Ann Arbor; taysteesburger.com) offers fresh (daily) halal beef across a burger-centric menu of à la carte sandwiches and sides, along with wings ($11.99 for a six-piece) and a few vegan ($7-$8) and protein-style bowl options ($12.99). Ownership and management are hands-on and like Saroki’s, staff is uniformly engaging and generous in spirited service and sincerely seems to want to know how your day’s going and, if you’re dining in (there’s ample seating), what you think of their food.

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On that note, Taystee’s fries may be better than any I’ve sampled as either a professional eater or a 61-year-old who’s enjoyed more than his share of “French”-fried potatoes in life. They’re $3.99 for a basket big enough to fill half a bushel, and they’re spectacularly skin-on crisp, fresh, and piping hot. Seasoning options are up to you. While I’m a salt and pepper purist, there’s also ranch or lemon pepper.    
Then there’s the burgers themselves: big, juicy, and nestled between soft, toasty buns of buttery brioche. Taystee’s Hawaiian ($10.49) has fresh-grilled pineapple and caramelized onion painted with a piquant teriyaki glaze and a gooey blanket of Pepper Jack, tasting every bit as delicious as that all sounds together. Simpler, my Mushroom Swiss model ($9.99) also sings, gilded with those same griddled onions, lettuce, tomato, mayo, and ketchup. Assortments of adornment options aside (pizza toppings, a spicy “Volcano” version, Mac N Cheesed, et al., $10.99-$14.99), Taystee’s is more about quality meat and bread, and while some in my circle beef a bit about the price of a burger with fries here ($15-$20), these are the prices we’re paying nowadays, folks (sorry, last time). 
My one critical takeaway along those lines — for what it’s worth — is that half the fries for half the price is something Taystee’s might consider from a customer’s value perception perspective. Too much for too much is too much. I get they’re shareable, but how many customers come in alone, capisce? Sides are a different story, and Taystee’s offers reasonably-priced onion rings, poppers, cheese sticks, and such. But fries are still a throw-in in the minds of many. Just sayin’.    
Truly, the gas station business model has evolved since my boyhood back in the 20th century. Honestly, what will they think of next, hover-thru for those air cars we’ve been hearing about since that Rush album? It boggles this old stoner’s mind.             
More good gas station eats:
Robert Stempkowski

On that note, Taystee’s fries may be better than any I’ve sampled as either a professional eater or a 61-year-old who’s enjoyed more than his share of “French”-fried potatoes in life. They’re $3.99 for a basket big enough to fill half a bushel, and they’re spectacularly skin-on crisp, fresh, and piping hot. Seasoning options are up to you. While I’m a salt and pepper purist, there’s also ranch or lemon pepper.

Then there’s the burgers themselves: big, juicy, and nestled between soft, toasty buns of buttery brioche. Taystee’s Hawaiian ($10.49) has fresh-grilled pineapple and caramelized onion painted with a piquant teriyaki glaze and a gooey blanket of Pepper Jack, tasting every bit as delicious as that all sounds together. Simpler, my Mushroom Swiss model ($9.99) also sings, gilded with those same griddled onions, lettuce, tomato, mayo, and ketchup. Assortments of adornment options aside (pizza toppings, a spicy “Volcano” version, Mac N Cheesed, et al., $10.99-$14.99), Taystee’s is more about quality meat and bread, and while some in my circle beef a bit about the price of a burger with fries here ($15-$20), these are the prices we’re paying nowadays, folks (sorry, last time).

My one critical takeaway along those lines — for what it’s worth — is that half the fries for half the price is something Taystee’s might consider from a customer’s value perception perspective. Too much for too much is too much. I get they’re shareable, but how many customers come in alone, capisce? Sides are a different story, and Taystee’s offers reasonably-priced onion rings, poppers, cheese sticks, and such. But fries are still a throw-in in the minds of many. Just sayin’.

Truly, the gas station business model has evolved since my boyhood back in the 20th century. Honestly, what will they think of next, hover-thru for those air cars we’ve been hearing about since that Rush album? It boggles this old stoner’s mind.

More good gas station eats:

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Mr. Kabob 
3372 Coolidge Hwy., Berkley; mrkabob.com
Founded by the Gulli brothers in a Sunoco station in 2003, Mr. Kabob’s Mediterranean fare has become so popular that it has opened additional four Mr. Kabob Xpress locations throughout metro Detroit. —Lee DeVito
Mr. Kabob, Facebook

Mr. Kabob

3372 Coolidge Hwy., Berkley; mrkabob.com

Founded by the Gulli brothers in a Sunoco station in 2003, Mr. Kabob’s Mediterranean fare has become so popular that it has opened additional four Mr. Kabob Xpress locations throughout metro Detroit. —Lee DeVito

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Gloria’s Kitchen 
5015 Livernois Ave., Detroit
Attached to a BP Station in Southwest Detroit where your other dining option is Subway, Gloria’s has earned kudos for authentic Mexican dishes. —Lee DeVito
Gloria’s Kitchen, Facebook

Gloria’s Kitchen

5015 Livernois Ave., Detroit

Attached to a BP Station in Southwest Detroit where your other dining option is Subway, Gloria’s has earned kudos for authentic Mexican dishes. —Lee DeVito

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La Fogata Mexican Grill 
5015 Livernois Ave., Detroit
Across the street from Gloria’s Kitchen is another Mexican spot, this time in a Sunoco station. It’s also beloved for great Mexican favorites and good prices.—Lee DeVito
La Fogata S., Yelp!

La Fogata Mexican Grill

5015 Livernois Ave., Detroit

Across the street from Gloria’s Kitchen is another Mexican spot, this time in a Sunoco station. It’s also beloved for great Mexican favorites and good prices.—Lee DeVito

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Tmaz Taqueria
505 S. Huron St., Ypsilanti
Located inside of a Citgo gas station right as you get off I-94, this family-owned eatery serves up a various selection of Mexican cuisine. Not too far away, the spot also has two stand alone locations in Ann Arbor. —Layla McMurtrie
Facebook, Tmaz Taqueria

Tmaz Taqueria

505 S. Huron St., Ypsilanti

Located inside of a Citgo gas station right as you get off I-94, this family-owned eatery serves up a various selection of Mexican cuisine. Not too far away, the spot also has two stand alone locations in Ann Arbor. —Layla McMurtrie

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Las Cazuelas
4000 Livernois Ave., Detroit
Who knew so much good Mexican food could be found in gas stations? This one began at a local BP and now also has a location in Southfield. The restaurant is known for its traditional dishes and opens at 6 a.m. for Mexican-style breakfast. —Layla McMurtrie
La Cazuelas GrillYelp!

Las Cazuelas

4000 Livernois Ave., Detroit

Who knew so much good Mexican food could be found in gas stations? This one began at a local BP and now also has a location in Southfield. The restaurant is known for its traditional dishes and opens at 6 a.m. for Mexican-style breakfast. —Layla McMurtrie

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Krispy Krunchy Chicken
Multiple locations
This spot, with almost 3,000 locations in the country, can be found in numerous gas stations around metro Detroit. It’s known for its delicious Louisiana-style fried chicken. —Layla McMurtrie
Amoco Krispy Krunchy Chicken, Google Maps

Krispy Krunchy Chicken

Multiple locations

This spot, with almost 3,000 locations in the country, can be found in numerous gas stations around metro Detroit. It’s known for its delicious Louisiana-style fried chicken. —Layla McMurtrie

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Bogg’s Gas
1507 Holmes Rd., Ypsilanti
There is no separate restaurant attached to this gas station, but the longstanding family spot serves up a little bit of food of its own. To many Ypsi residents, Boggs is a delicacy. —Layla McMurtrie
Facebook, Boggs Gas

Bogg’s Gas

1507 Holmes Rd., Ypsilanti

There is no separate restaurant attached to this gas station, but the longstanding family spot serves up a little bit of food of its own. To many Ypsi residents, Boggs is a delicacy. —Layla McMurtrie

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Dhaba Indian Kitchen
37700 Six Mile Rd., Livonia
Established in 2014 at a BP, this spot is named after “Dhaba,” the word for roadside restaurants that serve North Indian food. It takes pride in its experienced chefs that use traditional spices and fresh ingredients. —Layla McMurtrie
Dhaba Indian Kitchen, Yelp!

Dhaba Indian Kitchen

37700 Six Mile Rd., Livonia

Established in 2014 at a BP, this spot is named after “Dhaba,” the word for roadside restaurants that serve North Indian food. It takes pride in its experienced chefs that use traditional spices and fresh ingredients. —Layla McMurtrie

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