The lunchtime specialty is dim sum: waitstaffers bring trays of dumplings, rolls, balls or potstickers to your table; you point; within a minute more choices roll up. It’s like a buffet, but you’re stationary and the food moves. You’re flying half-blind most of the time, but that’s part of the fun. Fifty choices on weekdays, 20 more on weekends. Most choices are grease-intense; most contain meat or seafood.
This article appears in Jul 2-8, 1997.
