It’s a busy place underneath the pretend grape arbor, because both the familiar–baba, shawarma, roasted vegetables–and the less so–arayis, ghallaba–are excellent. Arayis is pita topped with lamb, pine nuts and tahini, charbroiled. Chicken ghallaba uses a subtle and terrific combination of spices. The Caesar salad and the grapefruit juice are best ever.
This article appears in Aug 13-19, 1997.
