Top-of-the-line fare comes from a kitchen as ambitious as any in the area. Derin Moore, new as top chef, carries on a 25-year tradition at the recently face-lifted restaurant. Game is a feature as is Dover sole, roast duckling and mushrooms in many varieties and treatments, beginning with a wonderful soup. The wine list is extensive. Reservations are advisable.
This article appears in Aug 20-26, 1997.
