Detroit’s Leña Restaurant Heats Up the Culinary Scene

The flavors at this Spanish-inspired spot in Brush Park are outstanding

Courtesy photo

At least one element of every dish at Leña is “fired” in some way.

Leña has always been one of my favorite Spanish words. It sounds warm and familiar—kind of like my grandmother’s name—and I’ve always loved that it means firewood without actually including the words “fire” or “wood.” That feels fitting for a restaurant where nearly every dish touches flame in some way, whether it’s grilled, seared on a plancha, or cooked over a wood-fired hearth.

The flavors at Leña are bold and beautifully executed, and the service is polished and friendly. Just be prepared for a bit of a wait before your first dish arrives—and for a dining room that buzzes with energy. The menu is structured in classic Spanish fashion: pintxos (small, intensely flavorful bites), entradas (like gazpacho, Spanish tortilla, and veggie-forward starters), and principales, the hearty mains. It’s a flame-forward experience that manages to be both elevated and inviting.

Although every dish at Leña was good, I’d say it was the starters whose flavors stood out most. One friend said “best tapenade I’ve ever had,” of an earthy spread of smoked olives, walnuts, and quince paste, with lemon prominent (lemon is a modal flavor throughout the menu).

Also outstanding was blonde gazpacho, Andalusia style. It’s not tomato-based but white, more or less liquid garlic in effect, garnished with roasted grapes and almonds for crunch. A charred beet tartare (that’s beet, not beef) is garlicky too, on crisp, thick, buttery toast. The tortilla has a soft potato filling enlivened by lemon and a kick of something spicy at the end.

Ham croquettes were fine — crisp spheres, tender within — but more ordinary. A bright-red piquillo pepper was stuffed with crab, a good contrast. Most unusual were smoked mushrooms — chanterelles foraged by the chef himself, we were told — with a creamy sauce and hazelnuts, served with more thick, buttery toast. Our party agreed this was a stand-out. The only small-to-medium dish I didn’t care for was grilled broccoli, served cold, crunchy and smoky.

Of the half dozen main dishes, I liked a long tentacle of charred octopus primarily for the excellent green mojo and smoky, lemony aioli that brightened it up. Salmon is sushi grade from New Zealand and cooked gently to bring out salmon’s best characteristics. It’s served with a tomato-brandy sauce you’ll want to sop up and a fennel sofrito. One night a salmon special was offered—the head, blackened—and the meat was delectable if hard to pick out.

I found chicken chorizo rather bland, as you might expect: let chorizo be chorizo! It’s served with a big heap of grilled peppers and onions. Another sausage, long, skinny txistorra (you know it’s Basque when you see x’s in unfamiliar places), is cured just for a day. Here it was served with “Spanish rice” that I thought could be a lot fluffier; it’s the Calasparra variety that’s supposed to be good for paella, and it did indeed have a lot of texture. The dish includes a dab of sofrito to liven it up.

For dessert we had a puff pastry that turned out to be not feathery but a hard cracker, with a voluptuous rhubarb-raspberry filling. Hard to cut but worth the work. Arroz con leche was a bit overcome with cinnamon; a walnut praline made it taste a lot like a cinnamon graham cracker. Honey Maid still makes them!

Leña takes just as much pride in its bar program as it does in its kitchen, with a thoughtfully curated list of all-Spanish wines, sherries, and vermouths. Spain, after all, boasts more land under vine than any other country. While personal tastes will vary—one guest found the Barco del Corneta “Cucú” Verdejo a bit too sharp, while another raved about her crisp Estatu white and a third loved the full-bodied Pinaguas red—there’s clearly something for every palate. Even the sangria gets a twist here, made with rosé and Cocchi Rosa for a lighter, more aromatic profile.

Staying true to Spanish drinking culture, Leña also leans into the beloved gin tonic—yes, that’s how the Spanish say it—with three creative takes. The fruit-forward version is generously poured and laced with Angostura bitters, pink peppercorns, and raspberries, though the tonic itself takes a back seat. Floral and herbal versions round out the trio, each served with Leña’s signature flair.

One thing to note: parking can be tricky for non-residents of Brush Park, where street parking after 6 p.m. requires a residential permit. Thankfully, Leña validates for two nearby lots—440 Alfred and 124 Alfred—just be sure to scan the QR code. Also, plan ahead: last-minute cancellations come with a $25-per-person fee if made less than four hours before your reservation.