The venerable Downriver spot, still run by its founder, Mary Deardorff, has two eyecatching fireplaces, one in rose quartz, the other rough-cut amethyst, certainly a distinctive decor touch. Pastas, pizzas, veal and chicken dishes are consistently good, carefully made from the original recipes dating to 1953 when it all began. Big, bright, noisy.
This article appears in Jul 2-8, 1997.
