Tradition, tradition. Time-honored dishes such as London broil, Dover sole, Caesar salad and sauteed perch, the kind of straightforward American fare that is so good when it is done correctly and so ordinary when it isn’t, survives here. The British club aura of the place goes well with the menu, and the bar turns out well-made classic cocktails to complete the equation.
This article appears in Jul 2-8, 1997.
