415 S. Washington Ave., Royal Oak; 248-547-2751
Antica Pizzeria Fellini pays homage to pizza’s Neopolitan origins, which evolved from ancient flatbreads, using the dough and the wood-fired oven and the techniques that must conform to rigid standards. The result is soft yet chewy bread, topped with fresh toppings. The best test of a pizzaiolo’s proficiency and the freshness of the ingredients is a Margherita pie. Fellini’s gets high marks, covered with San Marzano tomatoes, fior di latte, basil, and, in this case, grated Parmesan. This is a pizzeria: no pasta, no veal. Salads and desserts — including a notable tiramisu — are worthy complements to the pie.
This article appears in Apr 25 – May 1, 2012.
