NOTE: THIS RESTAURANT HAS SINCE ALTERED ITS FORMAT TO MEXICAN: Brian Polcyn’s restaurant combines a casually chic small town setting with a big city menu. He cooks seasonally and with imagination. Signature dishes include a pate of the day which changes as frequently as the soup, sauteed Great Lakes pickerel, baked salmon and slow-roasted stuffed breast of chicken. Lots of creativity here.
This article appears in Aug 20-26, 1997.
