Wednesday, April 30, 2003

Multiple and choice

Posted By on Wed, Apr 30, 2003 at 12:00 AM

An Oxford professor has discovered why it’s more fun to eat tapas-style than to concentrate on just a few foods per meal. Apparently, many of the brain’s taste neurons respond only to specific smells, tastes and textures. This is one reason that Windsor’s new tapas-inspired Three is such a terrific place. The idea is to serve food and wine in the spirit of tapas: five-point peppercorn beef in brandy cream sauce, miso soup with wild mushrooms and a pleasantly burnt taste, tempura eggplant, peppers and carrots, a platter of smoky asparagus, artichoke heart and endive, and lamb chops with a dark, dark, minty, reduced balsamic sauce are only a few of the reasonably priced offerings.

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Wednesday, April 23, 2003

Chopsticks amazing

Posted By on Wed, Apr 23, 2003 at 12:00 AM

Like many Korean restaurants in the area, Mi Loc also serves Japanese food, including sushi, sashimi, tempura and teriyaki. It’s hard to figure the connection between the robust cooking of Korea and the artful, ethereal cuisine of Japan, but the two don't make as odd a couple as one might think. One of Mi Loc's specialities is Korean barbecue, where thin-sliced marinated beef is prepared on gas grills built into the tables, then eaten with sticky rice, lettuce and a variety of sauces. It's labor-intensive dining, but convivial. Other Korean dishes include samgaetang, a tiny whole chicken cooked in ginseng broth, then stuffed with rice, chestnuts, dates and garlic; mandoo konk, a traditional soup with beef dumplings, noodles and shreds of brisket; and japchae, a stir-fry of rice vermicelli, with slivers of beef and carrots no wider than toothpicks, plus green and red peppers, scallions and onions.

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Wednesday, April 16, 2003

Señor smoke

Posted By on Wed, Apr 16, 2003 at 12:00 AM

Much of the food here is as good as any other southwest-side restaurant’s, and some of it is head, shoulders and thorax above. The menu ranges from the standard Mexican-joint fare of cheese quesadillas, carne asada, beef tacos, and cheese enchiladas to less common dishes like a whole tilapia, served in the crispy, crusty, down-home Mexican style. Other standouts include sublime chiles rellenos (stuffed chiles) and chunky, body-warming caldo de pollo (chicken soup).

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Wednesday, April 9, 2003

Breakfast and beyond

Posted By on Wed, Apr 9, 2003 at 12:00 AM

Though co-owner and chef Tim Meeks describes Recipes as an upscale place for breakfast, the atmosphere is relaxed. The flawlessly served fare runs the gamut from the traditional (pancakes, biscuits and gravy, eggs in every variation imaginable) to the adventurous (California roll omlets with crabmeat, avocado, cucumber, cream cheese and bits of seaweed). Stay long enough and you'll have the chance to sample one of the delightful lunch dishes such as chicken scaloppini with angel hair pasta or pan-Asian pasta garnished with sprouts and a spring roll.

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Wednesday, April 2, 2003

Gourmet roulette

Posted By on Wed, Apr 2, 2003 at 12:00 AM

Many of the Hill's “signature dishes” cater to a Reagan-era notion of good eating — surf and turf, lots of blue cheese and bacon in the house salad. Seafood is a strong point: the grilled swordfish is tall and terrific and the calamari appetizer is out of the ordinary. Desserts are quintessentially American: the molten lava cake has a lucious liquid chocolate center.

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Gourmet roulette

Posted By on Wed, Apr 2, 2003 at 12:00 AM

The Hill specializes in seafood from Foley Fish in Boston. The Grosse Pointe establishment also serves plenty of steaks and chops, a few under $20 but most $28 and above. Signature side dishes are a highlight as well as their supreme dessert selection. Most desserts at The Hill are quintessentially American. The molten lava cake has a liquid chocolate center and is simply one of the best treats I’ve ever eaten. The mocha hazelnut torte gilds the lily, combining a bottom layer that tastes like pecan pie with chocolate layers, mocha butter-cream filling and amaretto on top.

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