Wednesday, January 29, 2003

Gino’s Porcino

Posted By on Wed, Jan 29, 2003 at 12:00 AM

The one medium-sized room that is Porcino is about as spare as a restaurant can be, with no hint of color: black chairs, white tablecloths and gray (definitely not inelegant gray) walls. The menu is also sophisticated, though not as minimal as the decor. You can’t call a salad that includes goat-cheese croutons rolled with nuts and herbs and fried vegetable chips “spare." The bill of fare owes something to Italian cuisine: The chef/owner’s name is Gino Parco, and there is a pasta section on the menu. But Parco casts a wider net, with such dishes as spring rolls with gingered slaw and mustard-plum sauce or pork chop with apple compote and root vegetables.

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Wednesday, January 8, 2003

Jefferson’s beach

Posted By on Wed, Jan 8, 2003 at 12:00 AM

Eat under a thatched roof or schmooze at the bar — you can almost hear the waves slapping on the beach. Join other revelers slurping their tsunamis, a tropical version of Long Island iced tea, as blue as a swimming pool and served in a goldfish bowl with Gummy Worms on the bottom. Slurp clams on the half shell, so much tastier than oysters and served with lemon wedges, horseradish and a kicky cocktail sauce. Try the Montego Bay calamari, sautéed in butter with tomatoes, capers and white wine. Or sample one of the huli-grilled specialities, like the banana leaf-wrapped chicken and ribs.

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