Diners are permitted them to build their own burger of beef, turkey or veggie with a dazzling array of choices. You can have your patty in a traditional bun or in a bowl with greenery and add one cheese from 10 options that include feta and horseradish cheddar and four toppings from among 20 that range from prosaic onions or tomatoes to unusual dried cranberries or hard-boiled eggs. And you’re not done yet, because you can also select from among 19 sauces, with peanut, roasted garlic aioli, and soy-ginger glaze among the most intriguing. The Papas estimate that also considering a grilled-chicken “burger” variation, choice of bun and additional “premium toppings,” they offer as many as 300,000 possible individualized burgers. And Burger King boasts about having it your way? But how do these creations taste? First, it is advisable to order the toppings on the side so that you can experiment with what can fit into your already ungainly burger and determine what goes best with what in what sequence. That said, all three burgers are thick and juicy, with the pricey and complicated veggie burger — corn, mushrooms, scallions, bell pepper, spinach, carrots, spinach and potatoes — a bit looser in consistency than its meatier counterparts but, according to my long-time vegetarian luncheon partner, competitive with our area’s best. The perfect accompaniment would be the grill’s signature French fried sweet potatoes ($3.79) cooked without trans fats. The other fare is praiseworthy, including baby backs ($12.95 for a half slab) a 14-ounce New York strip ($19.99) and grilled shrimp on a skewer. The wine list has some dependable California bottles ranging from $24 to $50.



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