The setting is exquisite. Tapawingo, the Native American name for the land that the restaurant occupies, is a remodeled handsome country home, bordered front and back with lush gardens. Tapawingo’s prix-fixe dinners run from $50 to $65 for three courses — appetizer, entrée and dessert. The menu changes frequently through the seasons, as does the consistently creative complimentary amuse-bouche that amounts to a mini-course. For mains, try a surprisingly meaty Cornish game hen, or the moist chunk of perfectly grilled sturgeon. All of this culinary sophistication may sound intimidating, but the experience is lightened by the accomplished and helpful servers. On all accounts then, from the lovely surroundings, the gracious service and the fascinating dishes, Tapawingo lives up to its national reputation. The only thing is, it's 265 miles away.

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