Sabidee (Closed)

This simple but attractive storefront in the Value Center Shopping Center seats about 50 in its bright, freshly painted dining space minimally decorated with Laotian art and artifacts. Most of the dishes on Wan’s extensive menu are of Thai origin, but there are a handful of Laotian specialties on their extensive menu. Be warned, Sabidee’s liberal handling of spices is not for the tender-palated; request a very mild spice level instead of “mild,” the tamest category on the menu. The appetizer plate ($9.95) can be shared by four, with spring rolls, chicken satay, fried tofu, fried plantains, curry puffs and beef jerky along with several dipping sauces. A large bowl of tom kha, a silky smooth soup of coconut milk, lime, chilies and chicken ($5) is an even better way for a party of four to launch an excursion into culinary parts unknown. Among the specifically Laotian fare is Sabidee noodles ($8.50), a satisfying mélange of thin noodles with bean sprouts, green onions and meat, chicken, seafood or tofu in a surprisingly delicate, yet vigorous peanut-accented sauce. The homemade grilled pork sausage ($7.95), among the fierier of their signature dishes, is also very good. Tofu options should appeal to vegetarians, and fans of fowl should enjoy the half crispy duck ($14.95), a dark mahogany beauty baked and fried to near perfection and enhanced by the gentle tamarind marinating sauce.