Jim Kokas was one of the first people to gamble that an upscale restaurant could make it in downtown Detroit, and it was a success for a long time. But when the big culinary trends are barbecue and beer, and when diners are anxious about the costs associated with anything that seems chi-chi, you have to change with the times. This kind of rebranding worked well for Larco's which became Big Beaver Tavern, and for Five Lakes Tavern, which became Cinco Lagos. Here's hoping Kokas and crew make the transition and come out with a concept that entices today's diner, which tends to be more budget-conscious and casual than ever before. Call 313-961-7766, ext. 400, for any catering needs, or head in for one last drink in a Detroit classic at 565 E. Larned St., Detroit.