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Staff Pick

Best Synthesis 


1428 Gratiot Ave., Detroit 313-782-4378;

A cheeseball hero once said, “I love it when a plan comes together.” There is no better summary of Antietam than that simple phrase. Sitting at the bar, you glance out the windows at Busy Bee Hardware across the street: They’re a Detroit institution, and you feel right at home among the art deco fixtures, the rescued-slash-salvaged backbar, the antique jeweler’s cabinet, the enigmatic “Ladies’ Lounge” sign. Then the food appears, by turns simple, then complex; artistic and intricate, then rustic and random; always, though, it is exacting and consistently superlative. Nothing on the menu disappoints, from the wildly popular oxtail terrine to the chicken to the pasta. The bar matches the food with a good selection of wines ably paired by the staff, and a skilled bar producing good house cocktails as well as the classics on demand. If it isn’t the best restaurant in Detroit, it certainly comes together like it.

(Sorry, no information is currently available for other years in this same award category.)

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December 1, 2021

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