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Three Nicks Scoreboard

18713 Van Born Rd., Allen Park; 313-563-8349; 3nicksbars.com

Hidden in an old cinderblock box dressed up with trim, Three Nicks Scoreboard is one of those great old bars, with a U-shaped lowered ceiling matching the bar, bikini-clad servers, and a half-pound burger that's delightfully juicy. The patty is kind of a big, ugly thing, with the kinds of bulges and seams that practically scream "hand-formed." And it's incredible, not just juicy, but — buttery? There's a richness here that suggests beef cooked in clarified butter, and it's wonderful. All in all, it's an excellent half-pound, two-hander, four-napkin burger.

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April 21, 2021

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