If we added correctly, the restaurant is offering 119 items just in the “rolls” category. And the proprietor is constantly adding ideas as his in-laws fax menus from Japan. So competition, the lifeblood of capitalism, brings about such innovations as the $10 Dragon Roll: long, high, wide and bright, with different fillings, toppings and colored sauces as you eat your way from head to tail. Crab tempura, cucumber, avocado, eel, eel sauce, bright orange smelt roe and octopus each play a part in surprising and delighting the diner from one bite to the next. For those who fear the raw, there are plenty of tempura items in the rolls, or the whole roll can be deep fried, creating a crisp outside while leaving the inside in its original state — no mean trick. Hot appetizers are also done well.

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