More formal than its immediate predecessor, Caffe Milano, Pi flaunts heavy linen tablecloths, elegant oversized white china in a variety of interesting shapes, dramatic white ceiling-to-floor curtains separating the lively tapas bar from the two main dining areas and a professional wait staff smartly attired in black. Averaging around $9, the seven starters may be a bit overpriced considering the relatively modest cost of the entrées, most of which are in the high teens. The entrées move geographically from Western Europe’s Irish lamb stew to Eastern Europe’s Polish bigos (beef, pork, sauerkraut and prunes). In between, the menu touches down in Spain, Portugal, France, Italy, Germany, Hungary, Greece and in Slavic regions. Italy weighs in with five items, including tender veal scallopini with artichoke hearts and mint ($19) swimming, or perhaps even drowning, in an espagnole sauce reduction. The well-selected wine list sticks to the Old World as well, with nothing from Australia, Chile or the United States.