Morton's of Chicago

A presentation cart of raw meat and fish comes to each table so diners may preview their Porterhouse, double filet mignon or live lobster before actually ordering it. Even the huge potatoes and stalks of broccoli get shown off. The well-trained staff narrates as all this goes on. The setting is elegant, clubby and a monument to red meat -- and everything is big enough to split. Since the menu is a la carte and expensive, it's far from a bad idea. ****