None of the glitterati treks to Loui’s for its elegant décor or haute cuisine, and none of the regular patrons comes to see the occasional glitterati who wander in. This is a quintessential pizza joint — hundreds of straw-covered chianti bottles signed by diners fill virtually every inch of wall space, the tables are covered with glass-protected red-checked cloths, the food is served on plain plastic tableware, and smoke hangs heavy, despite the ample non-smoking area amid the 47 tables and booths in the main dining room and the bar. Aficionados flock to Loui’s for the uniquely charred, thick-crust, deep-dish pizza. The whole production is just greasy enough to make eating by hand an adventure. For this pizza, a knife and fork are de rigueur.
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