This restaurant's beef is rich, tangy and lean, and even better paired with pastrami in a combo sandwich on rye, grilled in butter. And the corned beef reaches its apotheosis at Louie’s when made into hash, moist with plentiful onions, a $3.75 side of which is enough for three. The ham is both salty and sweet, as ham should be. And stevedores and lumberjacks will appreciate the choice of 18 omelets. Made with three eggs and covering most of a platter, they stretch the more-is-more principle to its limits.