Sherri Abbulone, from South Philly, and husband Joey, from Woodhaven, have taken on the challenge of creating authentic Philly cheesesteaks Downriver. In their eight-seat storefront they display a testimonial from a retired Ford employee who moved here 44 years ago; he spent that time vainly searching for a real cheesesteak — until Joey’s opened in August 2005. The term “cheesesteak” is misleading, since the sandwich is mostly meat. At Joey’s, it’s made like this: Thinly slice ribeye steak and fry a heap of it on the griddle. Grill sweet Vidalias at the same time. If you’re using American or provolone, lay the cheese over the frying steak, to melt it. Turn the whole thing onto a roll flown in from Amoroso’s Bakery in Philadelphia. If you’re a Cheez Whiz traditionalist, that’s dolloped directly onto the roll.

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