With a wide-ranging menu, striking presentations and quality cocktails, Inyo has sparked a buzz in Ferndale's dining scene. The dishes have not just flavor, but pleased texture contrasts within a dish. Take the cold appetizer maguro yookwhe: Strips of raw, lean tuna are deepened by a quail-egg topping and served with crunchy sliced Asian pear and a spicy dipping sauce. The hot side of the appetizer menu has everything from unagi (freshwater eel) and avocado rolled in a French crepe to Hong Kong-style spare ribs. Entrées include Inyo's version of kung pao chicken, or pepper steak that's startling in its simplicity. The sushi menu is the standard makimono (rolls), sashimi and nigiri ranges from ordinary maki to specialties, such as the Inyo roll is a marriage of king crab, strawberry, Japanese cucumber and mango sauce all topped with caviar. As usual, the textures and tastes harmonize beautifully. Space sports oversized, wraparound booths and a granite horseshoe bar, with a soundtrack of easygoing nu-disco and downbeat lounge tunes. Excellent specialty cocktails.