On a stretch of Orchard Lake Road dominated by West Bloomfield High School and generic suburban strip malls, there’s an oasis of organic food. The menu is familiar: kefta, kebabs, rice, lentil soup, fresh juices. The prices are reasonable. There are no overbearing servers listing the provenance of ingredients, just a small stack of a few organic products by the cash register. In fact, the only hint that there’s something different about the place is their recycled and planet-friendly serviceware — bamboo knives and forks may sound strange, but work just fine for the food (and the soup still comes in a ceramic bowl with a metal spoon). The food is fantastic, from the Afghan kebab, flavored with pepper and herbs, to the lamb kefta, which is definitional in its flavors and texture, to the lentil soup, which warms and nourishes with notes of cumin and lemon; everything is done with the care and precision that befits a place with a mission like Loya’s.
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